Sunday 10 March 2013

Measurements

Before cutting your fabric, you need to take measurements.  The diagram below shows the relevant measurements.  To simplify matters, all measurements are represented by coloured arrows / fonts throughout this post.

Arrows indicate important measurements for making circular cloaks
Body Measurements

Basically, there are 3 cutting methods:

Circular:
  • full-circle
  • half-circle
  • 3-piece circle
Triangular:
  • 2-piece
  • 3-piece
Trapezoid:
  • the narrower end of the trapezoid is dependent on the size of neckline

6 cutting methods are represented by diagram below.  Refer coloured fonts with diagram of 'Body Measurements' above.


Cutting Method Measurements Fabric Type

full-circle
(shoulder slope
+1/2 neck circumference
+length from shoulder) x 2
  • without nap
  • reversible
  • irreversible
  • non-directional pattern

3-piece circular
Center piece:
width = shoulder width
length = length from nape x 2

Side pieces:
width length from shoulder
length = length from nape x 2
  • without nap
  • reversible
  • irreversible
  • non-directional pattern

half-circle
(1/2 neck circumference
shoulder slope 
+length from shoulder) x 2
  • with/without nap
  • reversible
  • irreversible
  • non-directional pattern

2 equal triangles
1/2 neck circumference
+ shoulder slope
+ length from shoulder
  • without nap
  • reversible
  • irreversible (multiple of 4's
  • non-directional pattern

3 triangles
1/2 neck circumference
+ shoulder slope
+ length from shoulder
  • without nap
  • reversible
  • irreversible
  • non-directional pattern

3 trapezoids
shoulder slope
+ length from shoulder

Total number of <==> = circumference of final neckline
  • without nap
  • reversible
  • irreversible
  • non-directional pattern

Saturday 9 March 2013

Measuring Hood Opening


Below are pictures of hoods to give you an idea of how they look like with different-sized openings:-

Cloak-With-Very-Large-Hood
Very large and roomy.

Nimueh-small-neckline
Small neckline pleated for comfort.

Hood-with-extra-fullness-Morgana
Pleats at neckline for fullness.

Turn-back-hood-style
Curved hood opening for turn-back style.

Construction Tip:



  • Assemble cloak / cape and adjust neckline to finished size including gathers if any before cutting the hood.  
  • Don garment and drape a towel over your head to the preferred size of opening from the cape / cloak neckline.  


This method gives a closer measurement to your preferred size of opening rather than using a measuring tape.  When in doubt, add extra inches; especially if you want to make a gathered hood for extra fullness.